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Lo Manthang, the capital of the old “Lo” Kingdom, is a gem near Nepal's northern border with Tibet. It's a place with a rich history and a unique location along the ancient trade route that connected India and Tibet.
Walk through Lo Manthang's ancient walls and you'll feel like you've stepped back in time. The town is filled with traditional houses and the people still practice their age-old Tibetan Buddhist customs.
This region, now known as Upper Mustang, is part of the Tibetan Plateau, with elevations ranging from 3000 to over 6000 meters. Because it's in the rain shadow of the massive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, it has a desert-like climate–cool and semi-arid, with less than 200 mm of annual rainfall.
Upper Mustang covers about 2500 square kilometers and includes seven districts, locally called Lo Tso Dun. There are over twenty isolated settlements, some with just one or two households scattered across these districts.
With an estimated population of only 6000, it’s one of the least populated areas in Nepal. About half of the land is used for pasturing livestock, and only a tiny 1.2% is farmed, thanks to clever irrigation systems that channel snowmelt to the fields in the valleys.
Believe it or not, Lo Manthang used to be its independent kingdom called the Kingdom of Lo. It wasn't until the 18th century that it became part of Nepal.
History of Lo Manthang
Lo Manthang’s history dates back to when it was a part of the Tibetan Empire from the 7th century onwards. After the Tibetan Empire broke apart in the 10th century, Lo became part of the Ngari Kingdom of western Tibet.
Over the next 400 years, various powers, including the rulers of Ladakh, Gu-ge, Gung-thang, and the Khas kingdom from today’s northwestern Nepal, had influence over Lo.
In the mid-14th century, Lo started to assert its autonomy, and in 1440, it was declared an independent kingdom by its first king, Ama-pal.
This new kingdom quickly grew strong due to its strategic location on an important north-south trade route. It became a military, economic, and religious powerhouse throughout the 15th and 16th centuries.
However, from the mid-16th to the late 18th century, Lo came under the control of Gung-thang and the Jumla Kingdom of western Nepal.
A massive change came in 1789 when the newly formed Kingdom of Nepal annexed the region under the Shah dynasty, which ruled Nepal from 1769 to 2008.
Despite its annexation, Lo retained its cultural and political ties with Tibet and managed to maintain a degree of autonomy due to its remote location.
In the 1950s, the border with Tibet was closed because of political conflicts, leading to the collapse of trans-Himalayan trade.
This was a big disadvantage to Lo as it lost its main source of income. But being isolated also had a positive side; it helped protect Lo's special heritage and traditional lifestyle.
Geography and Landscape of Lo Manthang
Lo Manthang’s geographical landscape is unlike anywhere else in Nepal.
Situated at an elevation of over 3,800 meters, it has a cold and dry climate with scarce rainfall. The strong winds and lack of moisture create a stark and rugged landscape.
The beautiful landscape of Lo Manthang has been shaped over millions of years by the wind and weather, creating unique rock formations. The most striking feature of the area is its vast, barren terrain.
The mountains are mostly made of brown, weathered rock formations, with a bit of green popping up here and there where streams or irrigation channels water the land.
The place has really deep canyons, steep cliffs, and tall, bare mountains with hardly any greenery around.
The interesting fact is that the landscape of the Upper Mustang is considered sacred.
The setting, organization, and functioning of settlements are closely linked to Buddhist and Bon traditions and older animist belief systems.
Not to mention, religion plays a significant role in the lives of people in this region, and it has influenced the landscape, which is filled with religious buildings.
In the Tibetan region, spiritual protection of space is just as important as protecting against physical threats for both communities and individual structures.
An important part of Tibetan Buddhism is to control the 'wild,' which is seen as unlucky and harmful to people. To keep away evil spirits and protect everything spiritually, various protective items are placed around the land, settlements, and buildings.
In Upper Mustang, the way towns and buildings are arranged shows a connection to Bon and animist traditions.
People believe that rivers, mountains, and cliffs have souls and special powers. To keep their homes safe, they build special structures like chortens (shrines) and temples and perform rituals.
One common practice is walking around a sacred area, like a boundary to protect it. This is similar to how Buddhist people walk around holy sites.
People, Culture, Traditions, and beliefs of Lo Manthang
The people of Lo Manthang are called the "Lo-pa," and have a lot in common with the people from western and central Tibet in terms of their culture, language, and ethnicity.
Lo Manthang’s first king, Ama-pal invited people from different parts of Tibet to settle in Lo. This helped form various villages and communities we see today.
The people of this region speak a language also called "Lo-pa." It's actually a dialect of Tibetan, which helps connect them even more to their Tibetan roots.
The Lo-pa society is organized into three main classes. On top, there's the ruling class, the Ku-drag-pa. Then comes the middle layer, the working class or phal-pa.
At the bottom are the gar-pa, who do jobs like metalworking or tailoring. Interestingly, there's a special place for Buddhist scholars and monks. They're seen as even higher than everyone else.
There's another group, the nomads. They're like a bridge between the working class and the gar-pa. They move around with their animals, but they're not quite as settled as the folks in town.
Speaking of towns, the gar-pa actually have their own settlement outside Lo Manthang's walls, across a river.
Lo Manthang is a special place with a variety of religious traditions. The main religion practiced here is Tibetan Buddhism, specifically the Sakya-pa lineage. But you'll also find influences from other Buddhist traditions like Bon, Nyingma, Sakya, and Kagyu.
Before the 7th century, the region practiced Bon, which is an ancient pre-Buddhist religion. You see how diverse the spiritual history is in the region.
Without a doubt, Lo Manthang is a culturally rich region in Upper Mustang. This region has deeply rooted beliefs and traditions. Some of them are:
Belief in Omens and Dreams
People of this region place great trust in the messages conveyed through omens and dreams. They believe these signs can guide their actions and warn them of potential dangers. Even if someone says they don't believe in supernatural stuff, they often still have stories about it.
Astrology in Lo Manthang
People here practice and teach two kinds of astrology: "white" and "black." White astrology is all about making charts and calendars to help plan important events. Black astrology, on the other hand, helps figure out which days are lucky or unlucky based on the sun and moon.
Supernatural Beliefs and Protections
Belief in supernatural beings is common in Lo Manthang. To protect themselves, locals put up prayer flags, wear khata (special scarves), or build mani walls (stone walls with prayers carved into them). Burning juniper is also a way to purify a place and keep bad spirits away. People might also say special phrases to protect themselves.
Ghosts and Yetis
Ghosts are thought to live in certain areas, so people avoid those spots, especially at night. There's also a lot of talk about the mehti, known as the yeti or Abominable Snowman. Many locals say they've seen signs of the yeti, like hair or tracks.
Demons and Rituals
Demons or evil spirits connected to local gods are the most feared supernatural beings. People believe these demons can cause bad luck, sickness, and even death. To protect themselves, they perform rituals, celebrate festivals, and use special amulets. The knowledge of how to make these protective items is shared within the community, but only lamas (spiritual leaders) are trained to exorcise demons.
Festivals in Lo Manthang
There are a variety of festivals in Lo Manthang throughout the year. These festivals are the best times of year in Lo Manthang. Here are the main ones:
Tiji Festival
The Tiji Festival also known as Tenpa Chirim is one of the most amazing festivals held in Lo Manthang. It is the main event of the year, bringing people from all the villages of Lo together in the old capital. This celebration happens towards the end of May during the third month of the Tibetan calendar.
For three days, the monks from the Choede Monastery perform the story of Dorje Shunu, a local hero. According to legend, Dorje Shunu defeated his demon father to save his people from drought, protect their animals from infertility, and prevent other disasters.
This festival has become a symbol of a ritual that brings peace to the whole world over time. The festival wraps up with an epic finale where everyone takes a demon effigy to the outskirts of the town and smashes it.
The monks performing the rituals need to have expert knowledge of the dances, prayers, and the creation of torma (sculptures made from butter and tsampa). They also wear specific costumes and masks, which are made by the head lama, or khempa, of Choede.
Then there's this senior monk who gets chosen to play the hero, Dorje Shunu. For three months before the festival, the monk isolates himself to get ready basically getting his body and mind all set so that he can become Dorje Shunu and kick out any evils from Lo.
Yartung Festival
The Yartung Festival is a lively celebration held in Lo Manthang every August right before the harvest begins when people have a bit more free time. Many people call it the "horse racing festival" because of the amazing horse-riding skills that are the main highlight of the event.
The King or the prince starts the first day of Yartung. He leads a procession of men, each representing a household from the town to a specific spot in the northwest. Here, tents are set up and the horses are prepared for the exciting competitions and fun activities to come.
During the festival, the horse races are either bareback or saddled. One thrilling event involves two riders speeding towards each other and leaning over to pick up a silk scarf (khata) from the ground at the midpoint of their ride.
Another exciting competition has riders throwing stones at targets while on horseback. These targets, which represent demons and obstacles to a happy life, are known as "crystal mirror," "yak," "hands of the enemy," and "bread."
This competition is another way to drive away evil spirits and make sure they don't harm the settlements. In the past, there used to even be archery contests as part of the Yartung Festival.
Sonampa and Losar Festival
The Sonampa Festival, also known as the Mustangi New Year, is celebrated in January, one month before Losar, the Tibetan New Year. Both festivals are observed in Upper Mustang, but Sonampa is more widely celebrated.
Sonampa lasts for three days. On the first two days, people either stay in their homes or visit lamas to receive blessings. The third day is the most exciting. Everyone goes to high places to hang colorful prayer flags called dhar chok.
They also throw paper printed with the Windhorse deity, known as Lungh ta, into the wind. After that, people visit each other's homes to drink, eat, and dance.
Similarly, Losar, the Tibetan New Year, is celebrated in February, a month after Sonampa. While Sonampa is more popular in Upper Mustang, Losar is still an important event.
Losar is a time for families to come together and celebrate. The festival lasts for several days, filled with various activities and traditions.
People clean their homes to get rid of the old and welcome the new. They also make offerings to deities and prepare special foods. Just like Sonampa, Losar is a time for blessings, visiting friends and family, and enjoying feasts, music, and dance.
What are the monasteries in Lo Manthang?
Lo Manthang is home to a variety of monasteries. You’d be surprised to know its unique features and history. Here are some of the must-know ones:
Jampa Lakhang
Jampa Lakhang is the oldest temple in Lo Manthang. Its main hall is quite large, measuring 42 by 24 meters and standing 16 meters high.
When you enter, you come into a courtyard surrounded by a covered corridor, supported by wooden pillars with Tibetan capitals.
The temple itself is a three-story building decorated with numerous mandala wall paintings. These paintings are exceptionally detailed and feature gold highlights, not to mention that they are the main attraction of Jampa Lakhang.
On the ground floor, there's a chapel surrounded by a corridor painted with mandalas. The first floor has a chapel with a direct view of the main Maitreya statue, also known as Jampa or the Future Buddha. This floor is the most elaborately decorated, featuring hundreds of finely painted mandalas.
Similarly, the top floor, added later, serves as a paradise chapel, similar to those found in other 15th-century monasteries.
The most striking feature of Jampa Lakhang is the statue of Maitreya. Unlike most Maitreya statues that cover two floors, in Jampa Lakhang, the ground floor only houses the pedestal, while the entire statue can be seen on the first floor.
Thupchen Lakhang
Thupchen Lakhang is another precious monastery in Lo Manthang. It's a single-story building with a large temple hall and a vestibule at the front. The temple measures 37.2 by 24 meters and stands 12 meters high.
Originally, the main hall was designed as a square with a large platform for deity statues added on the western side. The grandeur of the hall is highlighted by a raised skylight supported by beams decorated with lion heads which channels mystical light into the temple.
In the 17th century, the temple's northern wall fell and was rebuilt. The new wall included one row of pillars which altered the original square shape of the hall.
The entrance and vestibule on the eastern side were added later. Unlike 15th-century temples, which typically had a door leading directly into the temple, Thupchen has an entrance hall with murals, pillars, and guardian statues.
Evidence suggests that the roof above the temple used to be at least one, if not two, stories higher. This additional space likely served as living quarters for the monks, giving Thupchen a mass similar to that of Jampa Lakhang.
Thupchen Lakhang is home to an interesting collection of wall paintings though different in style from the mandalas of Jampa. The temple also features a beautifully painted votive stupa in the southwest corner and a large series of statues, including one of Padmasambhava.
Choede Monastery
Choede Monastery, also known as Dragkar Thechen Ling, was established in 1710 and is the only living monastery in Lo Manthang, supporting a monastic school with over 100 monks.
This monastery is a hub of religious activity and education. Inside Choede Monastery, there's a museum with exclusive collections of statues, including a prominent image of Vajradhara, as well as masks and ancient manuscripts.
Among these manuscripts are some that were recovered by a National Geographic team from the Mardzong Cave in 2008, making the collection even more special.
Unfortunately, the southern chapel of the monastery was severely damaged by the 2015 earthquake and had to be demolished in 2019. It was reconstructed with the new structure being built using concrete for durability.
Luri Cave Monastery
Luri Cave Monastery is the most important one in Upper Mustang. This monastery is one of the few sites affiliated with the Kagyupa school of Buddhism, founded in the 14th century when the Kagyupa sect was trying to establish its influence in Lo.
Luri consists of a series of interconnected caves on multiple levels. The monastery is accessed by a steep, poorly maintained path leading up to the sandy cliffs. The main caves are reached via a small timber ladder.
Inside the main cave, there are paintings on the ceiling, walls, and chorten that are the earliest documented in Nepal. These extraordinary paintings are a unique blend of influences from India, Nepal, Tibet, and China, similar to those found in the Shalu Monastery in Central Tibet.
In 1971, the eastern wall of the cave was washed away by a landslide and later reconstructed. The entrance room of the main cave is decorated with beautiful murals and leads to a small sanctum that houses the main deities. The most stunning feature of Luri is hidden behind the sanctum.
To the left of the main altar, a tiny corridor leads to another cave containing a stupa carved out of the rock, also called a kabung. The stupa is almost as large as the room itself, leaving little space to admire it. It is decorated with marvelous paintings of Buddhist saints and Bodhisattvas.
The walls and ceiling of the cave are also painted with intricate floral and abstract motifs on a black background. This is why Luri Cave Monastery is a fascinating and unique site.
Tashi Kabum Cave Monastery
Tashi Kabum Cave Monastery was discovered in a vandalized state, with a broken chorten, when it was first documented by scholars in the early 1990s.
This monastery is believed to date back to the 14th century, similar to Luri Cave Monastery, based on similarities in dimensions, layout, and design.
According to local beliefs, there were originally eight cave monasteries with chortens in this region. Tashi Kabum is one of the surviving examples. The monastery consists of interconnected caves that likely served as places of meditation and worship for monks.
One of the notable features of Tashi Kabum is the paintings on the west wall, which include a beautiful image of the deity Shadak Shari Lokeshvara. These paintings provide insights into the religious and artistic practices of the time.
The current chorten at Tashi Kabum is a recent reconstruction, attempting to restore the historical integrity of the site.
Despite the challenges of preservation and reconstruction, Tashi Kabum Cave Monastery remains an important cultural and historical site in Upper Mustang.
Things to Do in Lo-Manthang
There are various activities you can do while in Lo Manthang. Some of them are:
Exploring the villages
Lo-Manthang is a walled village with whitewashed houses and narrow alleys. You sure don’t want to miss this. Walk the perimeter wall for amazing views of the surrounding valley. While exploring the villages, you’ll meet lovely locals and know their way of life.
Visiting the Royal Palace
The former royal palace, now a museum is a must-visit if you want to get glimpses of the history and culture of the Mustang region.
Hiking to the gompas or monasteries
There are several gompas, or Buddhist monasteries, in Lo-Manthang, including the gompa of Thamke Gompa and the gompa of Chhoser. These monasteries and gompas have unique and interesting features and history.
Attending the Tiji Festival
If you are in Lo-Manthang in late October or early November, you can attend the Tiji Festival, a colorful three-day festival that celebrates horses and the defeat of a demon.
Go trekking
If you want to explore Lo Manthang as well as other parts of Upper Mustang, trekking is a great option. Our Upper Mustang Trek package allows you to explore Lo Mantang in detail, as well as other places such as Chogo La Pass, Chatarang Valley, Dramkar, Ghiling, and Chhusang.
Jeep Tour
If you're not up for a trek, you can also explore the Upper Mustang region by jeep.
Our Upper Mustang Jeep Tour package lets you witness the beauty of Upper Mustang by jeep on a route with amazing views of the Himalayas, including the world's deepest gorge, the Kali Gandaki Gorge. You'll also visit historical sites like ancient monasteries and villages, with a highlight being a visit to Muktinath Temple, a holy place for both Hindus and Buddhists.
Mountain biking
The upper Mustang is perfect for Mountain biking. It is another great way to explore the region. You can choose several trails ranging from easy to difficult.
Horse riding
Horse riding is another memorable experience you can get while in Lo Manthang. Many of the trails in Upper Mustang are inaccessible by car or jeep. Horseback riding allows you to explore these hidden paths, getting off the beaten track and experiencing the region more authentically.
How to get to Lo-Manthang (permits, transportation) (lo Manthang permit)
To get to Lo Manthang, you'll need to follow a few steps due to its restricted status.
Permits
Firstly, you'll need a permit to enter Upper Mustang. This costs US$500 for 10 days and can be obtained from the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu. Remember, you must also travel with a guide as per Nepali regulations.
Transportation Options
Flight
There is no direct flight from Kathmandu to Lo Manthang. However, The quickest way to get close to Lo Manthang is by flying from Pokhara to Jomsom and then taking a jeep drive. This short flight takes less than half an hour. Flights depart early in the morning from Pokhara due to windy conditions later in the day. Keep in mind, that flights can be canceled or delayed due to weather.
Motorbike
For adventurers, motorbiking is an incredible option. Not to mention, motorbiking has been a popular choice recently. Many local and international travelers choose to motorbike in Mustang. Many people are seen riding dirt motorbikes, Hartford VRs, and Royal Enfields.
While riding you can start from Pokhara and head towards Jomsom, passing through Tatopani and Kagbeni where you'll need to show your Upper Mustang permit. The journey continues through rugged terrain, taking about a few days to reach Lo Manthang, depending on your pace and stops.
Jeep
If you prefer comfort and speed over ruggedness, renting a jeep from Pokhara is an excellent choice. Drive to Tatopani on the first day, then to Chhusang on the second day, bypassing Jomsom. From Chhusang, it's a relatively shorter 5-6 hour ride to Lo Manthang.
Trekking
If you're someone who enjoys trekking over anything, trekking to Lo Manthang is an amazing way to immerse yourself in the landscape and culture.
On your first day, you'll trek from Kagbeni to Chele, passing through beautiful desert scenery and charming villages. Over the next few days, you'll continue to Ghiling and Charang before finally reaching the destination of Lo Manthang on the fourth day of your trek. You can also customize the itinerary of your choice with Sublime Trails.
The best time to visit considering the weather (Lo Manthang weather)
The best time to visit Lo Manthang is either spring (March-May) or autumn (September-November).
During Spring (March-May) you get to experience pleasant weather with warm days and cool nights. Average temperatures range from 5°C (41°F) to 20°C (68°F). Clear skies offer excellent visibility for trekkers and sightseers. This is the peak season for tourism, so expect crowds, especially during the Tiji Festival held in May.
Likewise, during Summer (June-August) monsoon season brings occasional rain showers, but the region lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, so rainfall is generally less compared to other parts of Nepal. However, trekking might be challenging due to slippery trails. Average temperatures range from 10°C (50°F) to 25°C (77°F).
Another ideal season to visit Lo Manthang, with clear skies, pleasant temperatures, and comfortable hiking conditions is Autumn (September-November). Average temperatures range from 0°C (32°F) to 20°C (68°F). There are fewer crowds compared to spring.
As for Winter (December-February) you’ll experience extremely cold with temperatures dropping below freezing and occasional snowfall. Average temperatures range from -15°C (5°F) to 5°C (41°F). In the Upper Mustang, most lodges and guesthouses close down during this time. Trekking is not recommended due to harsh weather conditions.
Accommodation options and Meals(lo Manthang hotel)
Forget fancy hotels. Lo Manthang is all about experiencing the real Mustang vibe. You'll find friendly guesthouses run by locals. They might be simple, but they're clean and comfy.
When it comes to food, Lo Manthang the guesthouses usually include meals with your stay, so you get to try the traditional foods of Upper Mustang.
In Upper Mustang, the traditional food consists of tsampa (roasted barley flour), butter tea, a bit of dried meat, and some cheese. People also enjoy other traditional Tibetan dishes like thukpa, momo, and dinero (buckwheat paste).
While Dal Bhat (lentil soup with rice and curries) isn't that traditional, it's more popular and you can find it in every guesthouse too.
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